Adventures in Dining!

Washington Red Table Wines
Jenise Stone

In Washington, there’s a phenomenon we really don’t see much of elsewhere in the wine world. It’s called Red Table Wine, and it’s usually an affordable blend of what one winery aptly called “the barrels that don’t quite fit the rest of [the] program.” Sometimes, though, the wines can be a very deliberate bottling of some of the winery’s better grapes (like the 2002 Columbia Crest “Walter Clore” Red Wine, which just won a spot on the 2005 Wine Spectator Top 100).

Aren’t these blends also called Meritage? Well, no. That name cannot be used without paying a fee to the organization who trademarked it, and the name is restricted to blends of three or more of the five Bordeaux varieties (cabernet sauvignon, cabernet franc, merlot, malbec and petite verdot). Some wineries like Three Rivers prefer it because consumers understand that it denotes a prestige bottling in the style of Bordeaux, where others like Matthews Cellars skip the fee and use the term English term “claret” or create a unique proprietary name.

How can you tell which is which? Well, price is usually a good indicator. Take Fidelitas, a relative newcomer in the high-end stakes: they have a flagship blend called Optima that retails for around $50, but also a blend called M100 Red Wine that retails for around $18.

Whatever. What it really means to Pacific Northwest wine lovers is that there is a plethora of unique, complex wines available, and every bottle holds the promise of new adventure and good value. Here are ten, including one from Oregon, that are drinking well now (all tasted November 2005).

2003 Januik Red Table Wine: Blackberry and blueberry fruit with a cocoa finish on a bold, muscular frame. Tastes expensive, but only about $18 most places.

2003 Colvin Walla Walla Red: If the Januik was serious, then the Colvin’s just fun. Full of juicy bright red berry fruit, potpourri spice and shy tannins. Though it’s mostly merlot, it could almost pass for zinfandel. Currently $12 at Costco.

2003 Tamarack Firehouse Red, Columbia Valley: A combination of just about every red grape (six) from every Washington wine growing appellation. Supple, Lush and complex with cherry-berry fruit, espresso and violets. $18.

2003 Ryan Patrick Rock Island Red, Columbia Valley: Stylish mix of earthy red and black fruits with red-rock minerality and espresso notes in the full finish. The syrah really shows; it’s plush and rustic at the same time, which I’m a sucker for. A bargain for just $12 at Costco.

2003 House Wine (K Vintners), Washington: A ripe style of raspberry and blackberry fruit with toasty oak flavors. Mostly merlot and syrah with a touch of cab thrown in. $10.

2003 Bergevin Lane Calico Red, Columbia Valley: Ballsy black cherry and blackberry fruit with vanilla oak and black licorice. Would be an excellent upgrade to the next tier for the Yellow Tail crowd.

2003 Fidelitas M100 Red Wine, Columbia Valley: Classy black cherry and plum, tar, fennel and mocha notes. Bone dry and surprisingly well finessed. A tuxedo of a wine for just $18.

Forgeron Cellars Red Table Wine (non-vintage), Walla Walla: Toasty cherry and berry with an herbaceous streak and a slightly hot finish that had me looking at the bottle for the alcohol content (only 13.8%). Great for grilled meats.

2001 Canoe Ridge Red Table Wine, Columbia Valley: Young vine cabernet and merlot give off full-bodied blackberry and black currant with notes of licorice and dark chocolate. A lot more substantial than one expects for $12 (Costco).

2000 Foris Fly-Over Red, Rogue River Valley, Oregon: Berry, cedar, and saddle leather distinguishes this cab franc/merlot blend from one of southern Oregon’s warmer growing climates. Though it originally sold for $20, it’s widely available now for just $11 and someone else did the aging for you!

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Jenise Stone is a wine enthusiast and avid foodie who lives in Birch Bay, Washington. She can be reached by emailing wine@tasteofskagit.com.

(11-30-2005)

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